Sonia Rykiel at Les Arts Decoratifs, Paris
Words by Anna Parkin
Sonia Rykiel is a pioneer. Rebelling against Left Bank bourgeois-chic in the 1960s, she was the first designer to expose the insides and unfinished hems of her garments. She even managed to make materials as obscure as sponge look good. To mark the 40th anniversary of her career in fashion, Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris is currently hosting a delectable exhibition composed of photographs, videos, and over 200 of the designer’s most iconic pieces. The whole exhibition is arranged by theme rather than chronological order and has a thoroughly contemporary feel, probably because Rykiel’s designs have always been so avant-garde, setting themselves apart from the mainstream trends of previous decades.
What makes this exhibition unique is its intimacy. The Sonia Rykiel story is told in photos, personal letters, sketches, video reels and voice-overs, as visitors are welcomed into the mind that created the famous Poor Boy Sweater.
Rykiel was the 1960s answer to Coco Chanel. She made prêt-à-porter creations for the newly-liberated women who rejected the inaccessible and out-of-date haute couture of the Left Bank. Rykiel is also celebrated for giving life to the colour black, teaming it with bold prints and brightly-coloured accessories. She gave a new edge to the Little Black Dress, reworking the Chanel classic and emblazoning her own creations with multicoloured rhinestones. And since you can never have too many accessories, visitors can also admire Rykiel’s gorgeous collection of quirky brooches including lips, stars, and butterflies, designed to add a splash of fun to an all-black outfit.
For the Summer 2009 show, some of the biggest names in fashion were asked to design a piece that would represent Rykiel. Just some of those on display include creations from Jean Paul Gaultier, Nina Ricci and Karl Lagerfeld. U.S label Rodarte contributed a kooky knitwear ensemble with Obama written across the chest, paying homage to Rykiel’s trademark etching of random words into her clothing. There are also a crazy series of dresses and coats with imitations of Rykiel’s fiery red locks integrated into the outfit.
The exhibition ends with words by various fans from the world of fashion on what la femme Rykiel means to them. There is even a letter from the former French Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin. For all of her admirers, Rykiel inspires freedom. Her clothes are alive; they capture an inimitable spirit - vibrant, revolutionary, and effervescent.
The Sonia Rykiel exhibition will run until April 19 2009 at Les Arts Decoratifs, 107 rue de Rivoli 75001 PARIS.
Posted Thu, April 16, 2009