The Mofo
Words by Sophie Eggleton
Despite only a few years in the business Lee Cropper, better known as ‘The Mofo’, has been catapulted to cult photographer status. Whether its due to his subjects’ recognizable faces - he’s shot Sadie Frost, Pearl Lowe, Lois Winstone and Portia Freeman - or his risqué and sometimes voyeuristic style, normal folk and well known faces alike are clambering in their sexiest (or barely there) ensembles to become the alluring star of one of his trademark images.
In December 2008, a collection of his racy shots were exhibited in one of Shoreditch’s best spaces, ‘Behind the Shutters’, and received attention from the Sun and The Mirror, Sky NEWS, MSN and The Metro. This exposure, and word of mouth, has meant the 28 year old is in high demand - with an abundance of willing models offering their faces and bodies to the cause. Alongside his personal projects, this year sees him channel his energies further into fashion photography.
Firstly, why are you called the Mofo, apart from the obvious?
To be honest it’s a name I was called by friends before I got into taking photos. We’d be out partying, and I’d be all “mofo” and “word up”, as a joke. I never thought I’d end up using Mofo as my name in photos, as I didn’t take anything serious back then!
I read that you only took up photography after coming across a camera in NY, what were you doing before that?
Yeah, I found this shitty film SLR. I got some film and took some shots. Just of random things. There are just as many interesting things in NYC as London. I wanna live and work there one day. Before that I was ducking ‘n’ diving in London, working to live. And before that I was a failed musician and DJ. I’d give up the camera any day if I could play guitar properly, but I can’t, so…
Did you find you had an innate talent for photography or did you work hard to learn how to photograph well?
I don’t like the word talent. I’m not sure what it means. People say that a lot. Talent. I did just pick up a camera with no formal training. But I’ve never been one to sit and study. As glam as the job is, there is a lot that isn’t, there is hard work. Try lugging four heavy bags around with you on your own for a week! It’s good exercise though. Didn’t need to swim.
How did you secure your first high profile shoot?
It was about 6 months after I started taking photos. Sadie Frost saw my photos of me shooting girls in my room, hotels and parties. I went around to her house with this tiny camera. She thought it was a joke, I’m sure. But we were happy with the pics. One was in the exhibition I did recently in Shoreditch. I think it sold as well.
Is it important to you that the images are technically good or is the aesthetic the only thing that matters?
Aesthetic. If it hits my eyes, it will hit yours.
A lot of your shots are voyeuristic and quite racy, why do you choose that style?
I didn’t choose it. I had a naïve approach in the beginning. I couldn’t name a photo or photographer I liked, as I didn’t know. So I guess it’s a natural progression. I’ve always liked girls. Everyone does.
Do your models tend to be overtly sexy naturally, or does posing for you bring it out in them?
Depends. Subjects, models, people - I shoot what I like and that can work. I think anyone who wants to be photographed generally wants to look good right? And sexy? So it doesn’t take much from me. I do work quickly though. Not too much fuss with set ups, so I use that time to speak to my subject.
How do encourage them to relax or become alluring during a shoot?
The more candid stuff isn’t set up. That’s real life. My ex is a model, so we would shoot all the time. Alcohol helps with relaxing. Too much is shit though. You lose the eyes, then you are fucked. I have learnt that.
Is it hard to make a living from the photography, particularly niche stuff such as yours?
For sure. I don’t own a studio, house or car. I’d rather be the tortoise though. I could make serious quick money if I want to in photos. But then I might as well be a lawyer, or work in the city.
How does it work, do you approach the celebrities or do they come to you?
Some times I approach, sometimes people come to me. Depends what we want to achieve.
Do you have a preference between shooting unknown/well known faces?
Let’s not kid ourselves here, shooting a face that people know is great. It’s good for me, good for my client and for the face. But there’s something I love about photographing someone that people are like ‘who is that?’ It’s always great when you know that person you photographed like that, might never be shot again like that. It gives extra value to a shot. I think most photographers must think like that. If they don’t, then perhaps I’m just a control freak.
You’ve released a book. How did that come about and how did you choose what made the final cut?
People ask me if I got a book. So I made one. ‘Little Black Book 1’ is available online through blurb.com. Blurb is a good way to publish your own work. It was hard to choose, but there will be a little black book 2 and 3…
Whose work do you admire?
Diane Arbus, as her stuff shows she had a method of charm, trust and engagement with people, otherwise there is no way she could of taken those shots. She took risks too. Bourdin is great because of the colour, he was way ahead of his time. Richardson - just ‘cos he says “fuck you all, this is me, no rules” and Rankin for his sheer work rate. I hear he works 7 days a week, straight all the time.
Where would you most like to see your work?
French Playboy!
Who would be your dream person to shoot and why?
Shannon Sossamon. She’s an actress in LA - beautiful and unique. Karen O as she is unpredictable, and such a performer. I like that. Vincent Gallo, as I hear he isn’t this cunt people say he is, and John Lennon, if he was alive.
What makes someone sexy?
Confidence. Best eyes, mouth, lips, legs mean nothing without confidence for me.
What tips would you give aspiring photographers?
Take as many pics as you can. Make mistakes, then more. It’s a numbers game, the more you take the more you learn. Oh, and get subjects that are pleasing on the eye. That fucking helps!
What’s next for the Mofo?
Working with a couple of designers for their lookbooks and campaigns. I’m shooting much more editorial stories now. Focusing more, I’m taking it seriously now. Before it was just a laugh. Now I get clients that need and want a result. There will be more exhibitions, I’m working on a project now for that. And more books........
http://www.the-mofo.co.uk
http://www.myspace.com/leezo_mofo
http://twitter.com/thexmofo
The fashion never finishes. Check out Sarah’s review of Hussein Chayalan.
Posted Mon, April 06, 2009
Comments on The Mofo
Buy his book here!!
http://www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/570955
Posted by: Sophie Eggleton | 06/04/2009 at 11:15
Cheeky fucker isnt he, like the photos though.
Posted by: germanmerman | 06/04/2009 at 17:52
superstar mofo :)
Posted by: jane | 08/04/2009 at 09:42
Love your work!
Posted by: Larita | 09/04/2009 at 09:12
The mofo: Sock rocker!
Posted by: Dee | 09/04/2009 at 09:22
I had worked with Lee as an art director and I have to say he have an eyes and a light, I am really currious to see how he’s gonna evolve. He does ad a little something to the picture and I see an english impertinence kind of grunch and this all indi wave, as a french person I find this really refreshing he might be the next Nan Goldin mixt with Terry Richardson, Who knows. All the best to him
Posted by: Jacquline Dumont | 09/04/2009 at 09:43
Mofo is a dirty genius.
Posted by: Julia | 09/04/2009 at 10:15
Lee is one of the UK’s most talented photographers, I’m happy to see him getting the attention he deserves.
He’s really lovely too :)
Posted by: Tessa | 09/04/2009 at 12:11
His work is very derivative, I don’t see anything original that hasn’t been done before, even with his generation of photographers, infact there is much better. Good luck to him though, there is no doubting however that he has had a slight helping hand by knowing some “names” I guess that always helps, right?
Posted by: Leo | 09/04/2009 at 13:10
keeps it real.loves nasty girls.watch him explode x
Posted by: Miki | 09/04/2009 at 18:57
huge talent! in anticipation to see more of this kind of cheeky dirty but bloody sexy art. evidently the man has a great eye and super skills.... pls photograph me~!!!!
Posted by: alyonka | 09/04/2009 at 19:50
i love his photography..the epitome of british gritty chic
Posted by: felicity | 09/04/2009 at 19:56
His approach to fashion photography is refreshing to see, he appriciates the visual appearance of a fashion image and portrays a personality through his subjects. His images always look fun, and make you want to join the party! Good luck to him, i hope to see his contemporary style much more in the industry.
Posted by: nikki | 09/04/2009 at 20:07
he seems to be getting a bit of press coverage now. first Holy Moly, now this.
Posted by: anon | 27/04/2009 at 15:47
love the work.
Posted by: jess w | 29/04/2009 at 10:54
awesome work
Posted by: Name | 01/05/2009 at 01:28
British Talent. Stay clear of fashion and believe in your own ideas mofo
Posted by: Ana | 13/07/2009 at 20:16
Lee Cropper is AMAZING! Such an innovative photographer. More Mofo coverage please. he deserves it muchly! X
Posted by: Ali | 19/10/2009 at 20:19