Fashion in Motion at the V&A: Review
Words by Louisa Elderton
Scantily clad models, complete with decedent head gear, cavorting down a catwalk past seven enormous Raphael cartoons lining the gallery walls; this is surely the stuff that art academic’s wet dreams are made of. Well, sort of.
2009 marks the ten year anniversary of the V&A’s ‘Fashion in Motion’ series, a programme of live catwalk events that aim to bring the museum mannequin to life, injecting movement, and making catwalk couture accessible to a wider audience. The first ever event was a minimal affair, and sent two models through the V&A galleries wearing Philip Tracey creations. At the beginning of April, they came full circle to focus once again on millinery, however, the scale had more than quadrupled, with the event becoming one that thrills both fashion and art-lovers alike.
‘Millinery in Motion’ was created in dialogue with the current exhibition at the V&A, ‘Hats An Anthology by Stephen Jones’ (24 February – 31 May 2009). Jones himself mounted the catwalk crowned (quite literally) in one of his own creations to introduce the designers in the show; these consisted of Stephen Jones (naturally), Noel Stewart, J Smith Esquire, Nasir Mazhar, Piers Atkinson and House of Flora.
As the overhead lights dimmed, and spotlights dazzled with bright white intensity, Muse entered the equation proclaiming that it is indeed a new dawn, and a new day, and a new life…for millinery. And that it is. Materials from rubber to feathers, plastic to flowers, silk to glass were utilised to create a spectacle that was nothing short of unique, mesmerising and inspiring. Every colour under the sun was explored; we feasted on a taste of the rainbow that even a bag of skittles couldn’t match. Highlights were Nasir Mazhar’s creations, where the sublime and surreal mutated to reveal truly forward thinking designs - think David Lynch meets George Lucas. Bronzed metal ellipses hovered above and around a model’s face, both framing and restricting her visage so that she became rather like a caged bird. Another piece saw long dark feathers secured into a black silk headband, transforming the model into an elegant beast, gazelle-like in form and beauty.
Previously featured designers have included Gareth Pugh, Christian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Swarovski, Missoni and Alexander McQueen. Curated by Oriel Cullen, the next in the ‘Fashion in Motion’ series will feature Giles Deacon; watch out for free tickets which you can bag via the website: http://www.vam.ac.uk.
Posted Thu, April 30, 2009